Bangalore to Ooty - via Madumalai National Park

AMONG THE FOOTHILLS –  UNWINDING ALONG WINDING TRAILS

 

Madumalai National Park offers a drive through the mist, sunrise from amidst the Nilgiri mountain ranges, and maybe some time with the big cats and the giants of the jungle.

A trip planned for the weekend in your new pair of wheel, adds new songs to your humming list and good humour into your daily gig. You require to look occupied at work even as the tell tale smile might be difficult to wipe off your face. Life comes down to being a constant countdown to the trip.

 

On the Road: Bangalore - Mysore

Cutting the distance in the late afternoon directly from work, in frenzied anticipation of the holidays ahead of us, we raced to leave the sleeping city behind, before the evening traffic sets in. Shouting over the blaring music blaring, the city passed us by in a blur of evening colour. Stopping only for the toll plazas, we reached the fringes of the city taking every newly built bypasses to cut through the city as fast as my 1.4 litre diesel engine could manage. We were well on our way to Mysore.

With stretches of good road ahead of us, we could test the limits of the engine and see if the tyres still managed to cling to the road. Brakes are a blessing, but it rips your heart out when you finally have to slow down.

 Good humour all around bordering on being unreasonable, you can make no mistake as the vacation mood sets in. The suns’ rays taking a faded yellow tinge gave the sparse towns the look of an 80’s mining townships, as we passed them by. Piling miles behind as the clock ticked, it was night by the time we entered Mysore keep an eye out for a good lodge.

Mysore - Madumalai

We started of on the second stretch of the trip, a bit later than the wee hours of morning than what we had planned for. The morning after a drive is always saved for a lazy breakfast in bed and cups after cups of great coffee. The open balcony door and windows letting the chilly morning breeze in.

We savoured an amazing cup of filter coffee and refreshing South Indian breakfast of Idli and Poori. But by the time we could pull ourselves out of the balcony after a third cup of coffee, the sun was overhead. With the windows rolled down we were able to feel the breeze as we raced to catch up with the time gone by. The music humming low in the background as we let the breeze cause a pleasant rustle inside the car.

‘Fields of Gold’ by Sting humming along to bring up the rear, as we chalked out in rubber the straight road. Nothing could make me stop smiling with such straight stretches ahead of me. We were looking forward to catch the sunset from atop the hills or at least on the curves uphill. Strains of Scorpion and Rasmus wrestled with Westlife as we put miles behind us.

The view had endless stretches of barren grasslands with a healthy sprinkle of trees by the roadside, old banyans trees stately against the canvas of golden fields. We stopped a couple of times along the way, giving in to temptation. The rays of gold soon stretched across the sky letting us know that we had little time left for before the sunset.

Racing against time in the chilly breeze, we were silent, in awe of the landscape stretched till the horizon. The early summer showers had probably just stopped. The breeze, laced with the intoxicating strain of the rain on dry lands, etching memories fresh as leaves in spring.

The barren stretches grew sparse and the trees on both sides of the road seemed to cover out most of the sky as we entered the sanctuary boundaries of Madumalai. The forest guards were unexpectedly polite and pleasant. Amazing roads greeted us ahead but for the incessant speed breakers. The stretches were beautiful. It had rained just before us and the peacocks provided us regular glimpses as they majestically strolled along. We slowed for a better glimpse of the Juvenile sambars with their large ears and the wild boars that kept crossing the road at regular intervals. Often stopping for an Indian bison, we were left hopping to spot an Elephant.

A word of caution – Do not try to chase the big mammals for a picture; a rejuvenated forest guard with a generous hand on the fine receipt might be the last sight you remember.

Madumalai has the highest concentration of Elephants in South India, and to hear their telltale grunt at night is a common occurrence regardless of the jungle resort you choose.

The sun was threatening to set, and the breeze was cold, as we found the route to our lodge and reached a well manicured garden that invited us to the Lodge we had booked within the sanctuary. The building set in ancestral Indian architecture with the granite showing along the walls and the generous helpings of polished wood. The well maintained balcony had a great view, as our cabin was near the outer fringes of the lodging property near the tall fence. Looking beyond, we could see the trees thicken against the blue mountain lines making up the background with white whiffs hiding most of the landscape.

To cap the day, we had a treat waiting for our taste buds, a sumptuous dinner on the balcony, listening to the sounds of the night. The far away elephant grunts and the usual rustle of the Jungle kept us company as we chattered away catching up with each others lives.

Sunrise at Madumalai

The branches of the tree that had spread into the balcony was still wet with dew when we stepped out in the morning. Climbing down onto the ground we found beyond our cabin was an open sty, and there were mules out grazing.

In moments the mule were getting accustomed to us trying to touch their necks and take pictures with them. Giving into the temptation we went bare feet into the grounds till the fence, soaking in the morning, walking in the grass still wet with dew.

The sound of nature was a refreshing break from the mornings we had got used to in the city. The squirrels kept their distance, striding cautiously and hopping from one tree to the next. Trees were all around, in various shades of bloom. Life seemed to slowdown as we took deep breaths, all thoughts melting into the chill breeze, fresh with the scent of leaves and dew.

Back at the balcony for a relaxed breakfast and again a few cups of great coffee. With half a mind we pulled ourselves out of the comfortable chairs in the balcony to walk and explore the surrounding at our own pace.

It is difficult for anyone to get tired on a vacation; we returned in time for lunch, we had ordered in advance along with breakfast at the canteen. The lack of other options nearby brought back memories of college days. The food being exceptionally good made the trip a delight in all respects. And we soon found ourselves digging into a delightful spread of North Indian cuisine mixed well with southern delights.

A nap after lunch and off we went in the evening with our guide to see as much of the jungle routes as the Forest guards permitted on foot. We got glimpse of the land spread around us from the top of the nearby hill. The temple keeper atop the hill had his stories to tell. We walked around in bliss, lost for words.

The next day morning we drove out along the forest road early in the morning and managed to catch a few wild buffaloes at their water hole and even an elephant who took off at a proud stride as we kept our distance behind. Then we came across the shallow waters and small kids fishing. With suitable caution, we did a quick walk though the shallow waters to spend some unforgettable moments with our feet and hands in water. With memories for life, we paid the fine making new friends (Those were tribal kids, tourists are not allowed to get into water) and drove back to our lodge, stopping for lunch along the road. Driving slowly, taking in the forest as we drove, soon the evening sun seemed to add a tinge of its own to the life around us, the plants, trees, dusty roads...

It feels great when you settle down for dinner after a full day of fun, knowing you have a great day to look forward to tomorrow. The surroundings seem to grow on you. We found a pair of little, new born kitten trying to fight and roll over in the grounds near the canteen. Life seems to stop as you settle in for an evening chai. Soon after freshening up we are were back for a tasty dinner savouring every bite, looking out into the night, the smell of nature fresh around you as well as the delicious aroma. The sound of the cricket commentary filled the background, and soon the Television in the open roof canteen became the cynosure of all eyes.

I could spend the whole day there with the smell of nature so fresh, the refreshing chilly breeze.

It is easy to forget who we are, listening to the elephants and the jungle turning alive at night, from a private balcony. To wake up carefree in the morning and step onto the balcony overlooking the jungle that hid the majestic cats and a few little elephants to boot.

Even as the holidays slipped away, on the return trip, we found ways to enjoy every bit.

If we had a few more days to spare we had plans for a jungle safari in the mist laden early morning, or better a guided trek covering areas like the Singara hillock and Moyar river side if they are still allowed by the forest guards. We had come across private providers for Jungle Safaris, but heard the Forest guards office runs regular Safari’s as well.

Well if you are not in a hurry to report back to office, there’s plenty to explore on your wheels. Ooty is a short drive away. Since Ooty needs no introduction, I move on.

As you drive back to civilization, do not forget to grab some fresh juicy Grapes that farmers sell along the way as a fresh snack for the drive into the city. Sweet memories are aided by satisfied taste buds.